Why Clothes Pill and How to Stop It (A Textile Engineer Explains)
Why fabric pills, which fibres pill most, how to remove pills safely and how to stop new ones forming, explained by a textile engineer.
The short answer
Pills are tiny balls of tangled fibre that form when short or loose fibres work their way out of the yarn and twist together through friction. You can remove them safely with a fabric shaver or sweater comb, and you can greatly reduce new pilling by washing inside out, on a gentle cycle, with less rubbing. Some pilling on new knitwear is normal; heavy, permanent pilling usually points to the fibre and yarn quality.
Pilling is one of the most common fabric complaints, and in fabric development it is something we test for before a fabric is approved. Here is what is really happening.
Why fabric pills
- Short fibres. Yarns made from short fibres have more loose ends that can migrate to the surface. Long fibres, such as long-staple cotton or quality cashmere, pill less.
- Low yarn twist. Soft, loosely twisted yarns feel lovely but release fibres more easily.
- Friction. Bag straps, seat belts, desk edges and the inside of your arms rub fabric constantly.
- Washing. Rubbing against other clothes in the machine pulls fibres loose.
- Strong synthetic fibres. On natural fabrics, pills usually break off and fall away. Polyester and nylon fibres are so strong that pills stay anchored, which is why blends often look worse over time.
Which fabrics pill most
| Fabric | Pilling tendency | Why |
|---|---|---|
| Polyester and acrylic blends | High, and pills stay | Strong fibres anchor the pills |
| Cashmere and lambswool | Medium at first, then settles | Fine short fibres work loose early |
| Fleece | High | Brushed surface of loose fibres |
| Viscose and bamboo knits | Medium | Fine, soft fibres |
| Long-staple cotton, linen | Low | Long, well-twisted fibres |
| Merino (quality, tightly knit) | Low to medium | Depends on yarn twist |
How to remove pills safely
- Lay the garment flat on a firm surface.
- Use a fabric shaver with light pressure, moving in gentle circles. Do not press hard on thin knits.
- For cashmere and fine wool, use a cashmere comb or pumice stone, stroking in one direction.
- Avoid razors on knitwear; it is easy to cut through yarn.
- Remove pills early. Small pills come off cleanly; large ones pull more fibre out.
How to prevent pilling
- Wash knitwear and fleece inside out.
- Use a gentle or wool cycle and a fuller drum, so items rub less.
- Separate textures: do not wash jumpers with jeans or towels.
- Hand wash cashmere and merino where possible.
- Air dry instead of tumble drying.
- Choose tightly knitted, long-fibre garments when buying.
For knitwear specifically, see our guides to cashmere sweater quality and merino wool clothing.
Frequently asked questions
Does pilling mean poor quality?
Not always. Even good cashmere pills a little in its first few wears as loose fibres work out. If a garment keeps pilling heavily after many removals, it usually has short fibres or a loose yarn.
Why does my new jumper pill so quickly?
New knitwear has loose fibres on the surface. Remove the first pills gently; good quality pieces usually settle down.
Can you stop polyester from pilling?
You can reduce it with gentle washing and less friction, but polyester pills stay attached, so a fabric shaver is the best fix.