Cashmere Sweaters: How to Judge Quality (A Textile Engineer’s Checklist)

The short answer

Good cashmere is 100% cashmere, made from long, fine fibres, spun into 2-ply yarn and knitted densely. A good sweater feels soft but substantial, springs back when stretched, and pills only lightly at first. Very cheap “cashmere” often uses short fibres or loose knitting, which feels lovely in the shop and pills heavily within weeks.

Searches for cashmere sweaters in Australia peak in May. Here is what separates good cashmere from disappointing cashmere, from more than 14 years of fabric development experience.

What cashmere is

Cashmere is the fine undercoat of cashmere goats, mostly from Inner Mongolia, Mongolia and northern China. Each goat produces only a small amount of usable fibre a year, which is why cashmere costs more than wool. By definition, cashmere fibre is very fine, around 19 microns or less, which is what makes it so soft.

The five quality factors

1. Fibre fineness. Finer fibres (around 14.5–16 microns) feel softer. Most good sweaters are in this range.
2. Fibre length. Longer fibres (over about 34 mm) mean fewer loose ends, less pilling and a longer life. This is the factor cheap cashmere cuts first.
3. Ply. 2-ply yarn (two strands twisted together) is stronger and more durable than 1-ply.
4. Knit density (gauge). A denser knit holds its shape and pills less. Hold it to the light: you should not see clearly through it.
5. Finishing. Over-brushed cashmere feels extra fluffy in the shop because the fibres have been raised, but it pills faster.

Quick tests before you buy

• Stretch test: gently stretch a small section of the hem. Good cashmere springs back.
• Light test: hold it up to the light; the knit should look even and fairly dense.
• Surface test: rub your palm on the sleeve for a few seconds. If little balls form immediately, it will pill heavily.
• Label test: 100% cashmere, or a stated blend such as 70% wool, 30% cashmere.

Caring for cashmere

Hand wash in cool water with a wool or cashmere shampoo, or use a wool cycle if the label allows. Press out water with a towel and dry flat. Fold, do not hang. Remove early pills gently with a cashmere comb. Store clean, folded, with cedar to deter moths. See our guide on how to remove pilling.

Frequently asked questions

Why does my cashmere sweater pill?

Some early pilling is normal as loose fibres work out. Heavy, ongoing pilling usually means short fibres or a loose knit.

Is cashmere warmer than wool?

Weight for weight, cashmere is warmer and softer than standard wool. Compare it with merino in our cashmere vs merino guide.

Can cashmere be machine washed?

Some brands label their cashmere machine washable on a wool cycle. Hand washing is still the gentlest option.