What Is Tencel? Lyocell Fabric Explained by a Textile Engineer
What Tencel lyocell is, how it is made in a closed-loop process, how it compares with cotton, modal and viscose, and how to care for it.
The short answer
TENCEL™ is a brand name for lyocell and modal fibres made by Lenzing, an Austrian company. When people say “Tencel” they usually mean TENCEL™ Lyocell: a smooth, strong, moisture-absorbing fibre made from wood pulp in a process that recovers and reuses almost all of its solvent. It feels cool, drapes beautifully and is used in shirts, dresses, denim and bedding.
After more than 14 years in fabric dyeing and development, lyocell is one of the fibres I rate most highly for warm-climate clothing. Here is why, and what to watch out for.
How lyocell is made
Lyocell is a regenerated cellulose fibre, like viscose and modal. Wood pulp, typically from eucalyptus, beech or spruce, is dissolved in a solvent and spun into fibres.
The difference is the chemistry. Traditional viscose uses carbon disulphide and several chemical steps. Lyocell uses a non-toxic organic solvent (NMMO) in a closed loop, where well over 99% of the solvent is recovered and reused. That is why lyocell is often described as a lower-impact alternative to viscose.
What lyocell feels like
- Smooth and cool to the touch, with a soft drape.
- Very absorbent, so it handles sweat well in summer.
- Strong, even when wet, unlike standard viscose, so it keeps its shape after washing.
- Low shrinkage when cared for properly.
- Slight “peach skin” feel on some fabrics. Lyocell fibres can split at the surface (called fibrillation), which finishers either remove for a smooth look or keep for a soft, suede-like touch.
Tencel lyocell vs other fibres
| Fibre | Feel | Moisture handling | Wet strength | Main strength |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Tencel lyocell | Smooth, cool, drapey | Excellent | Very good | Comfort plus durability |
| Tencel modal | Very soft, silky | Very good | Good | Softness for underwear and sleepwear |
| Viscose (rayon) | Soft, drapey | Very good | Weak | Low cost, nice drape |
| Cotton | Soft, matte | Good | Very good | Familiar, easy care |
| Polyester | Smooth, can feel warm | Poor | Very good | Cheap, crease-resistant |
Spotting real Tencel on a label
Look for “TENCEL™ Lyocell” or simply “lyocell” in the material composition. “Tencel-like”, “silky” or “eco viscose” are not the same thing. Many shirts blend lyocell with cotton or a little elastane, which is fine; the label should give the percentages.
- 100% lyocell
- Machine washable
Best 100% Tencel blouse
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- 95% lyocell, 5% elastane
- Machine washable
- Over 2,000 ratings
Best everyday lyocell top
Check price on Amazon AU Price & availability shown on Amazon.com.auHow to care for Tencel
Wash at 30 °C on a gentle cycle, inside out, with a mild liquid detergent. Avoid overloading the machine, because heavy rubbing can cause a white, chalky look on dark lyocell (from fibrillation). Line dry, or tumble dry on low. Iron on a medium setting.
Frequently asked questions
Is Tencel natural or synthetic?
It is made from natural wood cellulose but manufactured, so it is a regenerated or semi-synthetic fibre, like modal and viscose.
Is Tencel better than cotton?
It is smoother, cooler and more absorbent, and it drapes better. Cotton is cheaper and more familiar. For hot, humid weather, many people find lyocell more comfortable.
Does Tencel shrink?
Very little if washed at 30 °C. Hot washes and high-heat drying can cause some shrinkage.
Is Tencel the same as bamboo fabric?
No. Most “bamboo” fabric is viscose made from bamboo pulp. Lyocell can also be made from bamboo, but the label should say lyocell. See our bamboo fabric guide.